My curiosity about clothing design and design details in a historical context knows no bounds. It seems that some details in modern apparel which seem so new and fresh can be traced back into the ages. Conversely, I love new and innovative design which has never been seen before. One such new-old detail showed up… Read More Tied, Asymmetrical Neckline
Shortening ready-to-wear pants at the hem sounds easy, but one needs to know some things. It’s good to know your stuff. First, I must bring your attention to Mary A. Roehr’s book, published in 1987. Look beyond the hand drawing and the self-published look of the book and it is a treasure trove! I know,… Read More Basic Sewing Concept: Raising Hem of Tapered Pants
I am loathe to call it cultural appropriation but “khaki” in my language (Urdu) means dry mud or dust. This well-researched book circa 1995, agrees with that fact. I grew up with my mother and grandmother referring to anything in this subdued light brown shade as a “khaki color”. The term was Anglicized when the… Read More What Does “Khaki” Even Mean?
In most general sewing, it’s best to avoid stitching in areas where it’s unnecessary – to avoid the too much thread syndrome. Yes, there is such a thing, although the concept can be quite subjective. However, too much thread can be useful in certain areas of dressmaking and general fashion sewing. Such as, designs where… Read More Too Much Thread Can be a Good Thing: Multiple Rows of Top-Stitching
Well, the excitement got a little dampened along the way. Here’s why: All I wanted was an added pintucked detail to a much loved pants pattern in my favorite ponte knit from Sew Much Fabric. In spite of using all the appropriate threads, twin-needle sizes etc, and all the right sewing tricks, it began to… Read More Finally! White Pants, Vogue 1411
Hey kids, you’ve been doing it all wrong! How do you face a neckline? The tailor is Sajid of Sajid Designs, and you may not understand the language because he is Indian, but the videos are visually clear and understandable. He, like tailors from that part of the world, works a little differently than us… Read More Faced Neckline: Lesson Learned From a South Asian Tailor
About McCall’s Pattern 7470…. I found that the sleeved and sleeveless versions therein have the same front and back printed sections – and can be a conundrum depending on how picky you are about fit. You see, the armhole in a sleeveless garment MUST be close to the body, but sleeved versions need that extra ease;… Read More Sleeveless Armhole Neatness
Everyone names their clothing, right? Last week was the “Sheet”(dress, that is). Here is my Blue Lagoon. Heh. This is the latest iteration of the button down, but a bit longer, sleeveless and with a side flare. The inspiration was a Rebecca Minkoff version of a shirtdress, and the sewing stars seem to have aligned. I… Read More The Shirt Making Continues: Blue Lagoon
Oops, I mean “shirt” dress. Made with a bedsheet. In the interest of the Rs – Recycle, Reuse, Refashion and Repurpose, I’ve used a bedsheet for the first time to make a garment. Hey purists and snobs, it’s okay, it’s a trial muslin but it is a “wearable” muslin. One fine day, the nether regions… Read More “Sheet” Dress
Recently I had to sew an underarm gusset in a batwing sleeve, at the same time wondering why a batwing (or dolman) sleeve even needs a gusset. Anyhow, it started out as a godet insertion in the sleeve underarm. It meant 4 insertions which when sew together, served as a gusset. But…. sewing a godet… Read More Sewing in Godets. Lets Nerd Out.