Vogue 1411 in Stretch Woven #Denim

Now that I’ve sewn up 5 pairs of these pants in recommended ponte knit, I thought I would throw caution to the wind and make a pair in a stretch woven fabric for the 6th pair. Although they’re both stretchy, the ratio is very different in the two fabrics; my stretch-wovens did not stretch in the lengthwise direction, and has less stretch in the widthwise direction (depending on how much lycra was woven in).  I won’t bore you with the percentage of stretch and all that mathy stuff.

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The designer herself, Sandra Betzina, created stretch-woven versions of her design. So,  off I went to see what she did. Sure enough, Sandra Betzina made a pair in a printed stretch cotton, seen below. On their website, there are a few free episodes of the web tv show, and lucky me, the Vogue 1411 episode was on the free list. You should go there right now   Note to self: Gift myself a video subscription for the next birthday.

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Image source: Power Sewing Facebook Page.
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image source: Power Sewing website. Thank you!

If one proceeds to the web page called Sandra’sCloset, one can find this very pant in stretch leather and suede, pictured above. Perfect! We’ll now proceed with my own denim version. Here’s my work in progress, below, in a stretch denim.

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Work in progress

Fabric: A stretch denim, which I’m pretty sure has some rayon in it because it is drapier than just cotton/lycra. It was bought so long ago that I’ve forgotten the exact fiber content; even a burn test was not conclusive.

Design tweak: I thought it would be fun to use the wrong side of the denim for the middle front panels on each leg. All I would need to do was turn over and switch out the center front pattern piece – the #4 piece.

Pattern adjustment and moral of the story: the woven, lower-stretch fabric demanded that I use a larger size pattern. Since 1411 (a very close fitting pant) is already fit and cut to my size for stretchy knit, I needed to enlarge it.  I added 1” to the side seams, ½” to each inseam and extended the center back and center front/crotch seam by ½”. I call it the “play-it-by-ear grading process”.  I wanted to err on the too big side and it could be taken in, if needed. Also, I wanted these pants to stay a pull-up and not have to put a zipper in.  As it turned out, the basted pants were way, way, way too big, and had to be taken in at the sides and inseam for the snug fit.   Moral: a small addition goes a long way!

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Top stitching in progress

Sewing: Using a #14 universal needle (it should be a stretch needle but I did not have one and the universal worked out great), I sewed the pattern pieces together, remembering to switch pattern piece #4 so the lighter weft side is outside. At this point I consider the frayed denim look on the front seams, but decide against it. The seams are topstitched with my go-to triple stitch and a double needle.

Finishing: added the separate waistband, topstitched the pants hem, aaand we’re done.

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Sometimes we fashion sewers ought to have fun with fashion. Otherwise, what’s the point? See image below. Do you agree?

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Just for fun and more inspiration, here is Italian designer Roberto Cavalli’s offering for Spring Summer 2017. Denim is pervasive in the very high end fashion houses this season. Which makes me conclude that denim is the greatest sartorial equalizer. Do you think that’s stretch denim in the photo? I spot some frayed edges!   How would you recreate these pants?

Image from voguerunway.com – I love their mobile app, where this image is from. Many thanks to them. No, they don’t pay me for saying that.

Samina

 

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17 thoughts on “Vogue 1411 in Stretch Woven #Denim

    1. Janet, start using this pattern. I haven’t found anyone who doesn’t like it. Looking forward to seeing your thoughts about it. About the Cavalli jeans, it would be a great exercise in pattern manipulations, but I would control the color contrast to be a tad more subtle – you know, age appropriate for me and all that.
      Thanks for the link! Going there right now.

      Liked by 1 person

  1. I love the inserts. Actually it reminds me of the patches we used to sew onto our jeans. You know that copying that Designer original is exactly what I’ve been talking about with my DESIGNIN’ DECEMBER posts. You’ll have to read it over and join in with us, either with these jeans or with another copied a Designer Original!

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  2. Great pants! I’ve been looking into this pattern for myself. I’ve been a subscriber of Power Sewing videos for a few years and I learn something new all the time. It’s a wonderful education investment.
    Happy sewing!!!

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    1. Well, that clinches it then. I’m definitely subscribing to the Power Sewing videos next birthday. When I first viewed Sandra’s early videos, It was eye-opening; i’ve been learning from her ever since,

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    1. Thanks, Sue! I like her fabric selection of leather and suede. Yeah, the white is too much of a contrast, especially with the built-in decorative stitches.

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  3. Great post, Samina. I love the stretch denim pant you made. You found a great balance between being fashion forward, the Cavalli’s, and being functional. Yours are stylish and wearable.

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