So we continue, and finish the jacket from last week, Butterick 6253.
I am quite pleased with the finished garment, despite initial misgivings about using leather for sleeves, facings and part of the hood. Quite pleased, despite the fabric stripes not matching themselves and going wherever they want to. I chose the version with unfinished edges at the gathered seam and hem. What the heck, I left the sleeve hem raw too, as the leather won’t ever ravel.
Below: faux leather facings and hood back piece.
Overall, this is not a “difficult” pattern, but if one is at a beginner level, there are some areas where you may need guidance; and in some places the pattern kinda assumes a higher skill level. The pattern company gives it an “Average” rating, which I agree with.
Oops. forgot the hood cording. The buttonholes are almost perfect, though.
How long since you’ve used the hem gauge? Here I am using it to even out the hem. Heh.
Mostly I followed the pattern guidesheet for construction . Below are some details of the making of Butterick 6253:
I discovered quickly that stripes were not going to lay in a beautiful, matched horizontal fashion – especially in the middle and lower (gathered) layers. Why? Because the middle & bottom layer pattern pieces are not straight pieces. They are subtly curved and shaped. Without checking out the pattern pieces, it was very presumptuous of me to use stripes, but I went ahead with the project. Let the stripes fall where they may…..
I added interfacing strips to the entire armhole edge. Why? Since garment weight is supported mostly from the top (shoulders and neck and armhole), the gathers in this design added weight and were pulling down the armholes of the striped knit. Added interfacing on the supporting edges helped to carry a bit more weight. Of course my chosen knit was lighter weight than recommended. I still like this garment as it turned out.
The ruffled detail is not as ruffly as I first thought; it’s kinda on the skimpy side. BUT, that keeps the lower garment from becoming heavier than necessary. I love getting into the designer’s head — why did they design the way they did. It’s fun. Katherine Tilton, designer of Butterick 6253, knows her stuff.
You’ll notice that my separating zipper ends halfway down; it goes all the way down in the pattern. Why did I do that? My stash of long separating zippers did not color-coordinate with the rest of the piece. The shorter one was what I had. Remember, I’m using whatever notions I own, and making it work. Thankfully I had matching thread.
Who says you cannot apply fusible interfacing to fake leather. You can, if you take precautions: use an applique plastic cloth underneath, use a double layer of an organza press cloth on top. That’s how I did it. Of course you have to make sure that the fusible side is touching the wrong side of the fake leather pattern piece.
It’s become kind of routine now, but there is always a hiccup somewhere in the pattern guide sheet, or the pattern piece. It may be minor for experienced sewers, but when the guide sheet says match the dots on the pocket and side front, it’s annoying that there are no dots printed on the pocket piece. I moved on without being too aggravated because I know about inseam pockets. What if I was a new or intermediate sewer? A digital slap on the wrist for the pattern company. I love you but….
Noted for next version:
a) make a full bust adjustment on the top bodice front pattern piece. It will help the ruffled layers lay perfectly horizontal. I became lazy with this first version.
b) reduce the middle and lower bands in width. My 5’4” frame cannot take the length as designed.
c) do not use stripes.
This is my first make for Fall 2016. Is Fashion Week over yet? When leaves were turning last fall, I sewed up stuff for Spring Summer 2016. Keeping up with the fashion industry…..
Keep sewing, my friends…..