Earth Day is approaching! Time to re-use, re-cycle, re-make and whatever re-something you can do. I’m having a ball creating on-trend wearables by re-styling my own clothing.

I made this classic navy jacket as a student in a tailoring class eons ago. You can tell; huge shoulders are divulging it’s age. Because of it’s classic nautical style it just hung out in my closet, and when large shoulders went out the style window, the jacket did not see any wear. But there was a lot of effort put into creating it, and many tailoring lessons learned.  The fabric is tropical wool, lined with Bemberg rayon and I used a Burda pattern.Original

In 2014 it’s high time this classic got updated. An image in one of my favorite magazines, In Style, was the inspiration. Did you know that jackets (all kinds, from blazers to motorcycle) without sleeves are so on trend right now? In other words, vests.

Inspiration In Style Inspiration

Here’s how I did it:

The jacket was turned inside out and I assessed the sleeve/shoulder area. As you can see I had hand sewn the lining to the shoulder seam which made it easy to remove it.

Sleeve lining Inside shoulder

Take a peek at all the “support” inside for those large shoulders. Shoulder pads, sleeveheads (batting strips along the armscye top to give shape to the shoulder), and hair canvas in the chest area created the support system.  Then — I became one with the seam ripper and removed the sleeve from the jacket body!

Since this jacket was going to be sleeveless, I made a plan to make the armhole a little deeper at the top half. It merges into the original edge at the underarm. Here’s where a cardboard template comes in handy, mainly to match both armholes.

Templates Pinned shoulder

Once the “innards” are removed (you’ll notice that I kept the hair canvas which supports the chest area), I pinned the shoulder seam to lower it since no extra fabric was needed to accommodate the shoulder pad, and placed pins along the lines where armholes were to be reduced.

I thread basted along the pins. You can mark with chalk if you wish. The marking should be done on the fashion fabric and the lining separately. Remember that these markings are sewing lines not cutting lines, and they merge to nothing towards the neck.

Thread marking

I aligned the two marked lines along the shoulder and stitched the seam right sides together, then trimmed it to 5/8 inch. Do the same with the lining. Press seams open.

Pin lining and jacket armhole edges together along the marked lines and baste. Again, this is your seam line, not cutting line. Mark 5/8” from basted line and cut away the rest.

To finish the armhole edge I used the sleeves to cut out bias strips to make a bias facing, the circumference of the armhole plus 1.5” overlap, and 3.5” wide.

Use sleeve for bias facing Sleeve


The strip was folded lengthwise to make a narrower strip; was sewn to the armhole edge from the right side, raw edges aligned. Where the strips ended I overlapped the bias facing, diagonally.

Bias facing on armholes

Bias facing on armholes

Seam was trimmed to ¼”, clipped and pressed toward facing and under stitched. Under stitching will keep the facing from rolling out.

The armhole was pressed carefully since the fabric was wool, clapped (a wooden clapper is a tailor’s bestie) and voila. Into the closet she goes to wear on my next foray out the door. (Edit: it was road tested yesterday, and passed with flying colors. My personal photographer was not available, so the vest had to be photographed on the dress form. It looks better on me.)

Buttoned up indoors Unbuttoned outdoors

Thanks for visiting, dear readers! Have you been celebrating Mother Earth? If so, how? I’m looking into a tripod and remote to take non-phone selfies.


Hi everyone! Please don’t read this if you have already commented and made your choices for the pattern giveaway; thank you so very much if you have. Let me say that at this time you have a VERY good chance of winning your preferred pattern bundle!

If you have not entered the giveaway, and want to win a group of awesome patterns, go ahead and read the previous post here and make a comment.  The whole thing will end next Friday, April 18, 2014, on my mom’s birthday.

Just for fun, this is what she looked liked as a little girl. I’m told this picture was taken in Bangalore, India in the early 1930s, where my grandparents “summered”. Check out my mother’s crochet slip!?! Little girl has no clue that it’s too high; maybe that was the style those days in India. The little boy is my late uncle; still miss him. The adults, of course, are my beloved grandparents who are also missed.  Don’t you love old pictures where everyone dressed to the nines for a family photo?

Rahman Family


Thanks in advance for entering last week’s giveaway. Remember, it will close on 4-18-2014. Good luck!


PS: watch out for my earth month posts!! The giveaway is all part of that celebration….

Recently I confronted my pattern hoarding, I mean collecting instincts in the interest of de-cluttering and beautifying the sewing room.

The collection is now getting out of hand and I am streamlining in the spirit of reduce and recycle. Le sewing room needs to be less chaotic; and I, er, watched Hoarding: Buried Alive on TV this week. If you’re procrastinating with your de-cluttering, watch an episode of  Hoarding: Buried Alive on TLC.

Many, many patterns had to go into the paper recycle bin because they were all cut up and used. I was loathe to part with some of them because they were made several times and the garments were staples in my wardrobe. But it was time for them to go. Goodnight, sweet ones; you served me well.

Then there are 36 lovely patterns which are either unused or were traced out before using to preserve the originals. Dear readers, this is where you come in. I am giving them away!

First, let’s have some fun. Here are 10 categories of pattern collectors, as I see it. Which one are you?

  1. Designer Pattern Only Collector: A bit of a snob, and I used to be one.
  2. Simplicity/Project Runway Fan: Loves everything remotely connected to Project Runway. Me, me!
  3. The I-Only-Like-Vogue-Patterns Collector: Similar to #1 except when Vogue puts out unacceptable offerings, and before Simplicity became fashion forward and better fitting. I used to be this one too.
  4. The Free-or-99-Cent-Pattern Babe: O, thrifty one……
  5. Hot Patterns Groupie: Hot Patterns has a cult-like following, and deservedly so. This company put out some really great patterns.
  6. International Dress Enthusiast: She loves things like Kimono and Thai pants. Can anyone tell me who owns Folkwear Company now? They’ve changed owners more than I change my clothes.
  7. Independent Patterns Supporter: More power to this collector.
  8. PDF Pattern Pundit: She loves downloading digital patterns but grumbles about printing and taping them together.
  9. What’s New? Collector: Trend follower but never the fashion victim. After all, that is why she sews…..
  10. Vintage Patterns Only Please: Depending on her age, what’s vintage for her may be “I’ve worn this once in my life and don’t want to wear it again” for me.

Now for the giveaways! The patterns are divided into 6 groups, with 6 patterns in each group. (I’m feeling a little creepy with all the 6s). Click on the photos to enlarge and see the patterns. All patterns are in the 12/ 14 and above size range, except for one in Group 2, Simplicity Project Runway Inspired 2927, size 4-12 (the one on top) in the bundle. Group 6, Hot Patterns, is Glamor Girl size.

Group 1 Group 2

Group 3 Group 4

Group 5 Group 6

To win a pattern bundle, tell us in the comments section which category of collector you think you belong to. It can be more than one. Be sure to comment with your e-mail so I can contact you if you win.  Also, indicate which giveaway pattern group is your preference. Go ahead and give a second choice. If more than one of you have the same pattern group preference, I’ll pick a name from a bowl. Yup, we’re going to be terribly untechnical here. Shipping is on me if in US, Canada or Europe.

Good luck, and thank you for joining the sewing fun!


Easing fabric, in sewing vernacular, really means making one edge of fabric sew up evenly to a corresponding edge which happens to be a different length than the first one. For example, how would anyone sew a 10” fabric edge to an 11” edge without ending up with extra fabric at the end of the seam?  You ease the extra length of one piece to the shorter piece. Easing one pattern piece to another is such a part of the sewing activity that one hardly bats an eye when required to do it.

Where is it used? In many areas of garment sewing! Commonly in attaching a sleeve cap to armhole, sometimes in replacing a dart (such as a jacket sleeve elbow dart), especially in haute couture sewing. In a previous blog post, I used easing to reduce the armhole circumference of a ready to wear cotton everyday type of dress. Another use is to control a gaping neckline. It’s used to sew dresses with princess seams.

I will present two methods of easing; there are more ways but I won’t address them here to keep this post reasonably brief. You’re welcome.

Be aware that easing works best with certain fabrics which are able to shrink with steam. Best candidate is wool, then rayon and cotton. If you try easing polyester, you may be left with puckers rather than a smooth eased seam.


Staystitch Plus OR Finger-Behind-the-Presser-Foot method

As the first name implies, this is a combination of stay stitching (to keep the fabric edge from stretching) and ease-basting in one go.  I’ve used this easing technique countless times.  Sandra Betzina writes about it in her book Power Sewing, Step-by-Step ! She also calls it “crowding”, which is such a descriptive term. That Sandra, she has a way with words!  I’ve learned a LOT of cool sewing tech from her; from her books and from attending her classes in person and online.

This technique is a bit of an organic process. This is how I do it.  Let’s take the example of a gaping front armhole in a sleeveless dress. My original front armhole is 11” and I’d be much happier if it was 10”.  measure

Place two pins (or any other mark) approximately at the lower portion of the armhole front, as shown in the picture. Did I say this is an organic process?  pin

Set machine to a 4mm straight stitch.  Before starting to sew, gather one or two folds of fabric at the back of the presser foot with your left index finger and HOLD. Start sewing without moving away the finger. See the fabric collecting there? You’re doing it right!

crowd crowd2

End sewing at the second pin. Release the fabric from your finger, and remove fabric from machine. You’ll see that it’s somewhat puckered and smaller.  puckered

Measure armhole edge again to see if you got the desired size. If not, pull the thread slightly until you have the 10”. If it tightened too much, snip a couple of the machine stitches.   My armhole has been eased to the desired 10 inches. reduced

Steam the edge just inside the seam allowance to remove puckering.



Sewing with a Longer Stitch and Pulling Thread OR Faux Gathering:  

For this kind of easing, you start off as if you are gathering the fabric. Sew long stitches 3/8” inside the seam, stitch again close to the previous stitching, leaving long tails.  pressed

Pull the thread to bring the armhole to desired measurement (in this case 10″) and distribute the “puckers” evenly. Press inside the seam, and barely on the stitching.

pull thread

Done! Armhole eased to a smaller, non-gaping shape.

Other ways of easing include:

Steam —- without any ease-stitching whatsoever.

Using the combined action of your machine’s feed dog and your fingers to ease two uneven edges together.

I’ll address them another day…….

How do you ease???


Dear readers, do you recognize this pattern?

Black silk chiffon + silk scenic scarf = pretty tunic

Black silk chiffon + silk scenic scarf = pretty tunic

No? Of course not! It is a modification of an existing pattern, the Colette Pattern Company and their Sencha blouse pattern.

(Disclaimer: No affiliation with Colette Patterns)  Original Colette pattern

The Sencha blouse has a vintage 1940s vibe to it. Even though I avoid most clothing items which fit at the waist, I liked the pattern’s keyhole neckline and the loose shape in the upper bodice — and at the time Colette Patterns was a new-ish independent pattern company. The newness always breaks my resolve.  Thus, I bought the pattern and I did make a top with the waist tucks — and I like it.

Somewhere down the line an image of the Sencha top without the waist tucks stayed with me.  Then came the time in 2012 when I actually modified the original into a loose and airy tunic with a contrast yoke. The top was featured in a guest post I wrote for The Sewing Loft Blog, on behalf of the American Sewing Guild (I was employed at ASG then). The post was about favorite sewing tools so I did not get to write in detail about how I modified the Sencha pattern into the color-blocked, loose, airy chiffon number with a scenic print… until now.

The modification was easy and worked out well; with a few things to keep in mind.

Let’s begin with the assumption that you like everything about the original Sencha blouse, the fit, silhouette and details.

Analyzing:  I looked at the silhouette of the pattern before the waist tucks were sewn, and discovered that was pretty much what I wanted in the modification, except for a longer length.

A yoke was to be added to the pattern. More explicitly, the front and back pieces were each to be separated into an upper yoke and lower bodice. The center back opening was to become a seam; except in the back yoke – more about that below.

Measuring:  The important  measurement is from shoulder/neck (A) point down to where you want the yoke to end (B).  This will help you determine that the contrast yoke ends at the bottom at a preferred location, rather than cutting across, say, right across the apex of the bustline – not a good look unless that is what you’re going for.

Front modification

Front modification

Back modification

Back modification

Pattern: I suggest tracing out the front and back patterns rather than cutting up the original. On the tracing, do this: using the AB measurement, draw a vertical line from point A (shoulder/neck) to B (preferred lower edge of yoke). So, do we draw a horizontal line here to separate the yoke and bodice? Not so fast! The horizontal line needs to have a slight upward curve as it approaches the sleeve. See front modification picture above.  When you wear it, this line will look straighter. Well, as straight as possible. Since the human body is a curve itself, drawing a straight horizontal will curve sharply downward on the body. After you draw the yoke line, cut apart the top and bottom (on both front and back pattern) and add 5/8” seam allowances to the cut edges, either by tracing the pieces again or just trusting your memory to include the seam allowance when cutting fabric. I do not trust my memory – been burned too many times.

If using a solid or allover print fabric for the bodice portion, use the hemline of the original pattern as a guide which curves slightly upward on the sides, as it should.  However, since my lower bodice was a scarf print and I wanted the entire scenic print to be incorporated into the garment, including the white border below it, I left the original scarf edge straight across and used it as a hem. Yes, it droops on the sides a little but still looks good. In my opinion, that is.

Back: I folded the back fold line which is prominently marked on the original pattern, before tracing the back.  The back is not cut on fold, but has a center seam. But, do not add a seam allowance here.

Facings: none. This chiffon top is finished with a bias binding at the neck.

Cutting fabric:  The front has 2 pieces – the yoke and the bodice. The back has four pieces – 2 yokes and 2 bodice pieces.

Cut out

Sewing:  Sew center back seams on bodice portion, open seams, press and finish. Turn back and finish the center backs of the two back yokes – therein lies the opening. Sew yokes to the back bodice making sure that the finished edges of yokes meet at the center back seam of bodice. Finish seams as desired.

Back opening

Back opening

Join front yoke and bodice in a horizontal seam. Finish seam edges together and press down. Join shoulders. Finish seams, and press to back. Sew up the sides (finish seams), hem sleeves and bottom as desired.

My neckline was finished with bias binding with self-fabric – silk chiffon!! No it was not difficult. See picture above. The button loop on the back is an extension of the bias binding, turned back to make a loop.

Note: this tunic was sewn entirely by hand back in 2012. For details on my hand sewing needles post go to The Sewing Loft Blog.

Hope you like my top!  Do ask questions about this project.  Done any pattern design changes lately? We’d love to know!


PS: I was thrilled to see a similar tunic on Alida’s blog! It’s beautiful! Go check it out.

Instead of me writing some introductory drivel, let’s get right to this Jeopardy-like post.  Hope you enjoy it. Go ahead, add your own impressions in the comments section.

A note to all involved with Project Runway: Under the Gunn: I love you all and adore the show. Please forgive my snarkiness. It’s me, not you….

A: He wears no pants and probably does not own a pair.  Q: Who is mentor Mondo Guerra?

A: The garment was not underlined and consequently looked cheaply made and lost its design lines in the bodice. This is a red carpet challenge, please.  Lesson: Underline, underline, underlineQ: Who is Stephanie O, and why was her green red-carpet piece so messy looking?

A: I can hardly wait to see who wears this jumpsuit on the red carpet. Looking at you, Miley Cyrus! Out of the box thinking should go only so far. This ain’t no red carpet look, judges.   Q: What is Sam’s winning design for the red carpet challenge.

A: She got yelled at by Tim Gunn.  Q: Who is Isabelle?

A: “No, no, no, no, no!”  Q: What phrase has officially replaced “Make It Work”?

A: She seems to be emulating fashion designer Edna Mode of The Incredibles, the movie.   Q: Who is judge and designer Trina Turk?

A: She finally grew hair on the other side of her head!!!   Q: Who is mentor and past Project Runway winner Anya Ayoung-Chee?

A: He’s an interfering but well-meaning mother-in-law. Step away from the muslin, please!  Q: Who is mentor Nick Verreos?

A: She seems to be familiar with sewing terms and techniques. More power to her!! Hey, Project Runway, air more sewing and construction centered critique, please.   Q: Who is judge and stylist Jen Rade?

A: She is the Michael Kors of Project Runway: Under the Gunn. Also known as resident snark expert.   Q: Who is judge and stylist Jen Rade?

Hope you enjoyed reading this post. Feel free to comment. If you do not watch Under the Gunn, you should! It is my fashion sewing fix on TV.


Dear readers, followers, commenters and sewing besties.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

I love each and every one of you.  Here’s a box of candy.

Closed box Candy spill

Yes, I made this box which is folded and glued, complete with a heart on top.  My friend Vera showed me how to make it a few years ago; she used one of the freebie project sheets from Hancock Fabrics. I can post pictures of my box, but cannot detail the instructions since they belong to Hancock Fabrics. Copyright and all that, you know…..

These are the supplies I used: the pattern sheet (Hancock freebie from years ago), scarlet red silk dupioni, posterboard template, Pellon EZ Steam II (double sided fusible).  Not pictured: glue, scissors, exacto knife to cut into tight corners and a Hera marker (or similar thing) to lightly score the fold lines.

SuppliesTemplate fused 2Open box

I need to work on the paper/fabric/fusible skills, and some other crafting skills (see middle picture). It proves that someone with good sewing machine skills does not necessarily have great glue and paper skills.  At the bottom is the inside of the finished box, waiting for the glue to dry.

Closed box

I think the folded box turned out cute, despite my bad glue skills!

Thank you for reading this blog. Heart you all!  Hope you have a great “love day”. Do you always have a crafty, sew-y Valentine’s Day?

Love, Samina

Closing a gaping sleeveless armhole in a ready made dress.

Before bodice Before Dress

I’ve discovered that altering ready to wear is a hateful activity in the American hobby sewing community. I’m not sure why sewists/sewers/seamstresses detest alterations?  Frankly, I don’t mind altering something at all for a couple of reasons:

  • Altering a store bought item will give it a custom fit which makes it look way more flattering and expensive.
  • Altering is one way of finding out how high end (and low end) RTW is made from the inside. In years past, I’ve learned a LOT from altering clothing cheap and not so cheap.

So, without further ado, here is how I shrunk a gaping sleeveless armhole in my daughter’s striped cotton dress from Lands End. This particular bodice was pieced in a perfect chevron pattern at the front, had a side bust dart and was fully self-lined.

The obvious alteration would have been to create an armhole dart. But that would have been unsightly since there was already a bust dart in the bodice. Also, the stripe distortion would have been more pronounced.

I went to plan B, which was ease stitch the armhole of the front bodice enough to bring it closer to the body. This, I found to be a more, shall we say, organic mode of altering the armhole.  Did I say the bodice was fully self-lined? And the lining layer under-stitched?

  1. Grab your seam ripper and remove the under-stitching, then open the dress/lining armhole seam for about 5-6” on the front armhole only. The seam allowance, I discovered, was no more than ¼”. And that is good; it’s common in the ready to wear industry. East stitched
  2. Ease stitch the opening on both front and lining layers by sewing a line of 3 mm stitches barely inside the seam allowance. This is a narrow seam, but you can do it.  Ease stitching: after taking a few stitches, I put my finger on the back of the presser foot and the fabric sort of collects there, rather than pass straight to the back. This creates what you can technically call gathers, but it is really easing. Once you press it down, the fabric shrinks and there is barely a ripple. Well, maybe some rippling will occur but not too bad.  I reduced the armhole by as much as one inch and it made all the difference.
  3. Press after the ease stitching.  Press
  4.  Hand baste the opening closed. Press.
  5. Slip stitch the lining and front layer together by hand. Give it a final press.  What about the under-stitching in those 5-6”??  Forget about it.

Not too bad.

After bodice After dress

Do you like to do nip and tuck alterations on ready made clothing? Or do you just hate doing that? I would love to start a discussion about it. Chime in below!


My Bias Binder Attachment was given quite a workout as written in this earlier post.  Today’s post is about the tool and some tips to keep in mind.  Bernina has a new version to go with their fabulous new machines. I don’t have either the new machines or the updated binder. But I made this…………….    22

Read on, dear Reader, since the new binder basically works the same way with some snazzy design updates.  If you’re thinking of purchasing it (its expensive), make sure you watch a live demonstration at a dealership, in addition to a Bernina YouTube video. The video, however demonstrates the binding tool designed for pre-folded bias tape. I personally prefer the one designed for flat bias tape.

1 Parts 5 Put together

My Binding attachment has 2 parts: the weird L shaped guide (and you don’t know why it is shaped that way until you actually use it) which attaches to the machine with a pin and a screw. The other part is the presser foot #94 which looks like a one-legged creature and has to be used with the weird guide, #84. I don’t remember whether I had to pay separately for the #94 foot, or it came with the attachment. Charlene, feel free to chime in here, please ….

In  this tool you insert a flat bias strip and at the other end the strip comes out attached to your fashion fabric as a perfectly bound edge. Magic!  Now the tips:

1.  Cutting the bias strip: the width of the strip should be the exact size of the opening. My tool has a 1” opening. Even a smidge small and you will end up with raw edges showing instead of a nicely folded edge at the other end.

6 Ponty flat bias7 awl

2.  Inserting the bias strip in the tool: Cut the end of the bias strip into a point. Insert into the guide – that triangular part of the L shape. You’ll need to use a sharp pointed thing (I use my bamboo awl) to guide and push it gently into and out the guide, under the needle for about 2 inches or more. You’ll now see the point where the flat bias edges will be turned under.  The binding tool folds the under-edge a little wider to enable stitches in catching the fabric underneath (which you cannot see). That is slick……. See the picture below tip #4.


3.  If binding a quilted project, it helps to sew a line of stitching around the edge to be bound, about 1/8″ away from the raw edge.

4.  Important: move the needle position to one of the left positions. I move it to the far left so the stitching ends up at the very edge of the binding. Risky, but if I sew slowly and carefully, the results are good.

9 turned bias

5.  Sew a few stitches to start the binding without the main fabric. Then place the main fabric at the center of the presser foot (#94) to start binding.

6.  Keep your eye on the needle! This is one time I am taking back my insistence that one should not watch the needle while sewing.

7.  Whoa, slow down. When you see the binding form and attach itself to the fabric magically, there’s temptation to hit the pedal. Don’t do it.


8.  In addition to watching the needle, use the awl in front of the needle to make sure that the binding is not pulling out.

9.  My old #84 works well on curved, outward corners, if you go slowly, move the main fabric properly, and use the awl to make sure everything is moving like it should. I have not tried concave/inward corners. A sharp corner is impossible to do, in spite of what the brochure said.

16 better join

Smooth join in thin fabric

12 join

10.  Need to piece the flat bias tape to complete the project?  You can, but not with anything heavier than a thin cotton or a silk taffeta or fabric of similar weight. My home dec fabric in the picture is not heavy at all, but the joint seam did not go through the guide at the point where it gets folded.  The joining seam in the pink silk taffeta tape sailed right through!


Overlapped ends


Tape ends sewn together. Can you see the join?

11.  Joining the beginning and end of the tape if the binding is going all around: Stop sewing about 2” before the end, pull out the project through the binding tool and join it manually. It’s an easy step but I’m all thumbs with this. You can either seam the two ends together and then attach to the main fabric. Or, you can overlap one end over the other.  23

These are the bias binding tool tips that I’ve learned. If you’ve used this tool, do you have any other tips to share?  I’d love to hear from you. Or is there something you would like to know about this tool which I have not covered here?

Hope you enjoyed these tips!


Here’s the thing about New Year resolutions: making just one every few years, no more than that, is a possible way to success. At least it was for me. I’ve said this before – er, many times – but it bears repeating that my 2010 resolution to refrain from buying ready to wear and making my clothes instead, is now a habit. After four years, I am thrilled that it is safely ingrained in me.

Four years later I have a new New Year resolution: in 2014, I will organize and prettify the sewing room. Sewing activity is clutter-inducing. We know that.  I debated this res and kept telling myself, “yeah, fat chance you’ll ever have a neat and tidy sewing area, so don’t even try”. In the end, the decision was made to use an entire year to organize the Mirza sewing room, and you, dear reader, will have to read an occasional post about it. So sorry about that.  Hey, you might even join me. Except, of course, if you already have a beautiful sewing area with everything in its place. In that case you can read the posts and laugh at me.

We’ve all seen inspirational images of beautifully appointed craft and sewing spaces.  I present to you pictures of a REAL sewing room. It’s not pretty.

 Machine 2

Wire shelf  & MM

Wire shelf

Dress form

Bookshelf & DF

Cutting board


Pattern bin


The plan:

  • Tackle just one item or area every month, beginning in February. Baby steps, people!  Which means 11 areas/issues in the sewing room to tackle through the year. I can handle that.
  • Use what I have and try to make it look coordinated. No fancy custom furniture.
  • De-stash and organize fabric and patterns (major). I’m debating the de-stash as this is written. The fabric is not pictured in this post since my stash is stashed in various non-sewing areas.
  • Cover the bare window with a kitschy print curtain. Sewing and other hobby areas should be fun!
  • There will be bins…..

It’s a date! In January 2015 you’ll see this room re-vamped and organized. Full disclosure; I have consultation privileges with an interior design professional :) – family, you know.

Is your sewing room, or sewing corner pretty well appointed? Do you have organizational tips for me? Talk to me — please — in the comments section. Thank you!



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